Cut wood balusters in the middle and remove the top and bottom sections.
TIP: Wood balusters can be attached in different ways:
Toe-nailed into place
Fitted into a handrail hole with a dowel in the floor
Fastened with a double-ended baluster screw
Dovetailed into the tread (common in older homes)
If a baluster won’t come out, try rotating counter-clockwise. For dovetailed balusters, either cut flush with the tread or remove the mitered tread end to knock it out.
Drill Installation Holes
Check the existing holes if reusing the original wood baluster locations.
Hole sizes:
1/2" square balusters → 3/4" holes
9/16" square balusters → 7/8" holes
Drill handrail holes at least 1-1/2" deep and bottom holes 5/8"–3/4" deep.
Some balusters have a turned round top, which may allow for a slightly smaller drill bit and installation without a metal shoe.
TIP: Drill and test-fit one baluster before drilling all holes.
Adjust Baluster Spacing (if needed)
Local building codes or safety concerns may require different spacing.
2006 IRC Code: Gaps between balusters must not allow a 4" sphere to pass through.
If moving balusters, existing holes may need to be plugged with tapered wood plugs and sanded flush. Refinishing may be required.
Square Hole Method (Optional)
Metal balusters can be installed without shoes by making the holes square and snug to avoid visible gaps.
After drilling, square the hole sides with a chisel.
Cut Metal Balusters
Measure the distance from the floor/tread to the handrail.
Cut each baluster 1-1/8" to 1-1/2" longer than the measured distance.
Keep the ornamentation near the top intact — cut from the bottom.
Tools: metal chop saw with abrasive blade, metal band saw, jigsaw, or grinder with a metal cutting blade.
Measure each location individually to ensure correct lengths.
Test Fit One Baluster
Insert a cut baluster into the handrail hole and align the bottom with the floor/tread hole.
Ensure enough length is extended into the handrail.
Adjust hole diameter or depth if necessary.
Install Metal Balusters
Slide the metal shoe onto the baluster and tape it out of the way (shoes are cosmetic, not structural).
Apply epoxy or polyurethane adhesive into the top and bottom holes.
Insert the baluster and, if using shoes, add adhesive at the bottom and slide the shoe into place.
Square the baluster and shoes, then leave undisturbed until the adhesive cures.
TIP: We recommend Stair Warehouse epoxy — it’s 100% solid, doesn’t shrink, and comes with a special mixing tip for a clean, precise application. An epoxy gun is also available for easier use.
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